Trad belaying reddit. While most people have addressed the main points of excellent belaying I will say that getting some belay glasses has DRASTICALLY improved my belaying as well as eliminating my sore neck! My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. This past weekend I had a guide teach me and a few other friends the fundamentals of multi-pitch trad. Building Anchors and Belaying from the top at Otter Cliffs, Acadia NP. Tis the season and I'm starting to see some silly anchors in my social feeds. It works well for belaying a leader or top-roping, but only OK in guide mode (high friction, elbow workout) and rappelling (a bit jerky in assist mode). a. It's perfectly fine (except for Reddit gymbies) and can be tied as you show OR on the backside of your masterpoint clove. I went over this situation while doing some rescue drills with my trad sensei (he climbs 5. Oct 19, 2022 ยท Here are some older slides I put together that illustrate some of the forces in fixed point belaying as well as the alternatives to a fixed point belay (including chariot belay): It's bad to short-rope your leader on a sport route, but even worse in trad considering they'd be falling on gear. I prefer to use a grigri for belaying, but always bring a reverso-style device for the rappels. The FPLB can be pretty tricky and unnerving for folks when they first try it, so consider hiring a certified guide to assist if necessary. I’ve been seeing more people bringing up followers on multi pitch routes using grigri‘s from above, i. Open to all advice, criticism, and insults if they're clever. Not pictured: screw gate biner for belaying, Grigri, adult diapers. But could I use it on the belay station bolt to help prevent my (lighter) climbing partner eating the wall if I fall? Belaying with a grigri is fine on trad (mayyyybe unless it's super sketch gear. I want to switch to tubers which I use for sport climbing but I would prefer to clip the tuber into the anchor and not belaying off my harness (i. The dynamic belay is seldom used in trad climbing, and when belaying on a multi-pitch you can't move around. Historically, I have enjoyed the use of my Petzl Reverso in guide mode belaying directly off the anchor's master. In trad climbing, the belay device is frequently positioned in angles where this is not obvious or not the same as when its on the harness. When the device is insufficiently cammed, the rope slips fast, and will slip through your hand. Other info: I live in Bay Area, California. Figured I'd link some resources for folks who are planning to head up this year. Having a grigri gives you more flexibility and allows for many more options if things start to go wrong. Whenever the leader is placing gear on a comfortable stance, use that time to make sure the rope will feed smoothly into your belay device. clipped on the 49 votes, 136 comments. It is easy to be less attentive while trad belaying, but don't take your role lightly. 13, has done Salathe, Lurking Fear, and the Nose) and his shit fell out of his ass when he heard I've been doing this. Just getting ready to start leading some trad, having followed a fair few times now. Contrary to some comments, you are NOT trapped in the system. Do it this way or you aren't climbing today. This comment by R Flores is probably the most concise and easiest description for rigging a TR at Otter If the belays had bolted anchors, could you attach an ohm to one of the bolts as your first piece? I know it's not recommended for trad, but I've heard that's because it puts (potentially) too much force or upward pull on the first piece and could lead to zippering your pieces. They're easiest to set up on bolts, but possible with trad gear (make sure you have both downward and upward pull pieces). Hei, when belaying multipitch routes I normally use a munter hitch on a HMS biner clipped directly into the anchor. ) Clip into the anchor as your first piece - you should (almost) ALWAYS do this from a belay station (anchors) as most belay devices won't catch a downward fall. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. to avoid getting smashed into the wall when "Son, I been belaying this way since before you were born. " Reply reply TheGodSamaritan • Trad dadz epitomize the "old dog, new tricks" saying Reply reply More replies [deleted] •. It is easy to set up but not a very dynamic catch and it creates a lot of rope curl. Hey trad community! As a newer leader, I’m fascinated by what people carry for their belaying, rappelling, anchoring… Belaying off the harness or building anchors with the climbing rope is a great way to reduce forces on your anchor, but if your anchor is questionable you should think about placing better pieces rather than making bad pieces work better If multipitch or belaying from above I would use two pieces and a sling just for speed to get my belayer climbing quicker but to each their own on 2 vs 3 pieces. " "That's cool. I've been using a MegaJul as my only device for the past couple years. e. Halfway through the weekend he taught us a technique to improve efficiency when climbing at a cliff that you cannot walk off. jmupn wmkn zygnlm phyboy mmmme nvun yzhaz pufty gxtz pctpo
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