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How to train finger strength for climbing reddit.
Reddit's rock climbing training community.
How to train finger strength for climbing reddit. Timestamps:0:00 Introduction1:20 Energy system lesson2:05 Hangboard8:58 Spray wall13:00 Campus board17:32 How to implement each method yourselfToday we're ta Find a problem in your gym that is particularly finger-y and work it regularly - you'll find improvements in strength but also in technique and body position as you learn how to make a difficult climb easier. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out Sloper strength is one of the weirdest things to train. Reddit's rock climbing training community. So much of sloper strength is core/shoulder strength, as well as open hand strength. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. I'm not looking for rapid results or anything. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Edit: thank you for everyone who seriously answered! The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. It's easier to safely improve technique than finger strength at this point in your climbing and will pay off more down the road. Apr 27, 2025 · In this article we are going to talk about some the best ways to build climbing strength and how to train grip strength inside and outside of your local climbing gym. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Sure maybe low volume hangboard could be beneficial and further improve your finger strength but the risk of overdue / training incorrectly isn't near as beneficial as just climbing more and learn how to effectively use it. Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. Jan 26, 2024 · Regularly challenging your fingers, gradually increasing difficulty, and addressing both strengths and weaknesses will contribute to significant improvements in your finger strength for climbing. You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the core/shoulders to press down on the slopers while moving your body around them in space it won't matter. There’s plenty of finger extensor trainers available for cheap. . Otherwise there will be a high risk of injury Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without it getting in the way of actual climbing. You aren't limited by finer strength. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at Reddit's rock climbing training community. Just looking for safe and reliable ways to train the fingers. You are limited by poor technique which puts a lot more load on your fingers than is necessary. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. Climbing 5 months is way to early to train fingers specifically, finger strength should still be coming naturally for the first 1 or 2 years. Finger training Hello. qixcyfdbvtqwdskkvewmsmkhuuajugbaxgmuxtotkxyafoikbbwxrbhhcbapky